This Spanish tapas dish is from Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street; his new venture after many years running Cooks Illustrated. It’s an ambitious project, with a magazine and newsletters both print and on-line. This recipe came in a list of “Ten recipes that will change how you cook” which I found hard to resist.

This version of an ancient recipe eliminates the skewers and gets deep flavor from a simplified seasoning rub. You brown the cubes of pork quickly in a pan and then toss with lemon juice, garlic and honey. You could serve over rice, roasted vegetables or in lettuce cups. I found cous-cous and roasted carrots a great match as well. Great use for pork tenderloin.

1 1/2 tsp. ground coriander

1 1/2 tsp. ground cumin

1 1/2 tsp. smoked paprika

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1-pound pork tenderloin, trimmed and cut into 1-to 1/12 inch chunks

1 Tbs. lemon juice, plus lemon wedges to serve

1 Tbs. honey

1 large garlic clove, finely grated

2 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil

1 Tbs. chopped fresh oregano

Don’t cut the meat too small. If smaller than one inch, they will cook through before getting a flavorful crust.

In a medium bowl, combine the coriander, cumin, paprika, and 3/4 tsp. each salt and pepper. Add the pork and toss to coat, massaging the spices into the meat until no dry rub remains. Let the pork sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to an hour. Meanwhile, in another bowl, combine the lemon juice, honey and garlic. Set aside.

In a large skillet over medium-high, heat 1 Tbs. of the oil until just smoking. Add the meat in a single layer and cook without moving until deeply browned on one side, about 3 minutes. Using tongs, flip the pork and cook, turning, until cooked through and browned all over, another 2 to 3 minutes. Off heat, pour the lemon juice-garlic mixture over the meat and toss to coat then transfer to a serving platter. Sprinkle the oregano over the pork and drizzle with the remaining 1 Tbs. of oil. Serve with lemon wedges.

Note: Don’t overcook; as the tenderloin is tender and juicy if still a bit pink in the middle. And the lemon squeeze at the end really adds something.